Object Number 2013.0048.001 B

Object Name

Skirt

Category

Textiles (Clothing)

Credit Line/Donor

Gift of Sandy Lerner

Creator (Role)

Russell & Allen

Place of Origin

London, London, England, United Kingdom, Europe

Subjects

Theater

Materials

Silk brocade; Silk velvet; Cambric; Cotton lace; Horsehair; Silk taffeta; Brass; Linen; Cotton

Dimensions (inches)

51 (L) , 50 (W)

Dimensions (centimeters)

130 (L) , 126 (W)

Object Description

Web - 04/18/2016

This skirt is a part of a two piece dress (worn with bodice: 2013.0048.001 A) created by the19th century couture dress firm Russell & Allen. Two fabrics are used on the exterior of the skirt.The primary fabric is ivory silk brocade with tan and gold flowered motifs (floral sprigs and branches with leaves). The secondary fabric is green silk velvet, cut into two triangular panels and sewn to the front of the skirt. A panel of silk brocade is set between the velvet panels. The bottom of the velvet panels are beaded with geometric and floral motifs with multicolorglass seed beads. Portions of this motif repeat on 2013.0048.001 A. The construction of the front panel of this skirt is gored and features two triangular panels of green silk velvet with a panel of silk brocade in the center. The skirt is floor length with a short court train at the back. The silk brocade is used in one piece at the back of the skirt.The train is partially lined with rounded panels of cambric and edged in one ruffled tier of white cotton lace at the front and two ruffled tiers of lace to line the court train at the back. Four fabrics are used in the lining of the skirt: green silk taffeta, white cambric (probably linen, but may be cotton), white cotton lace and black tape (cotton or linen). The lining directly under the silk brocade and velvet exterior is green taffeta. The taffeta layer is a full lining, although it is attached to the brocade and velvet layer only at the top of the skirt and terminates in a series of flat pleated (1/2 inch wide) ruffles at the hem. The pleats are reinforced along the underside with panels of horsehair net. This example of horsehair net is flat and woven in a loose plain weave. The underside of the beaded velvet panel at the front of the skirt is not lined and the working (long basting) stitches are visible from the underside.The skirt closes with one brass hook and eye at the back.